[Wonders G5] 32. The Story of Surfing - Sihyun

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The Story of Surfing

A Polynesian Start

The story of surfing began more than 3,000 years ago in Polynesia. This is a large group of islands in the southern Pacific Ocean. Long ago, the fishermen in Polynesia used wooden boards to ride giant waves. These fishermen had a purpose. They would surf toward the shore. There, they laid their catch of the day on the sand.

The explorer Captain James Cook arrived in 1769. He saw a man paddling quickly in a small canoe. The man then stopped. He sat very still. Suddenly, a giant wave swept up the canoe! The man surfed along at the same speed as the wave. He landed on the beach.

Cook thought it looked like a lot of fun. He thought the man must have felt the “most supreme pleasure” from surfing in this way.

Surfing in Hawaii

The Polynesians brought surfing to Hawaii, too. It became popular there. Even royalty loved it! During the 1800s, King Kamehameha I was the ruler of the Big Island. He used
a hardwood surfboard. It was called olo. The board was about 24 feet long!

The king could navigate big waves. He skillfully steered his board with his legs and feet. He used his arms to balance. The king showed great skill. Today, surfing is often called the “Sport of Kings!”

The Father of Modern Surfing

In the early 1900s, there was a young man named Duke Kahanamoku who lived in Hawaii. He enjoyed surfing there on Waikiki Beach. He was also a talented swimmer. Duke won medals at three different Olympics! He is often considered the father of modern surfing.

Duke helped to make surfing popular in the United States. He once said:

Every day of the year where the water is 76 (degrees)...and the waves roll high, I take my sled...and coast down the face of the big waves that roll in at Waikiki.

The people of Hawaii still enjoy surfing today. Many generations of families carry on the tradition. Parents teach their children. Children teach their children. Surfing is an important part of culture in Hawaii. People of all ages enjoy riding the waves.